Saturday 22 October 2016

Autumn Eurocrankhop - Day 6


FK Dorcol v Zarkovo, Serbia Srpska Liga - Belgrade section.

Radnicki Novi Beograd v Sopot, Serbia Srpska Liga - Belgrade section.

Serbia v Italy, Rugby League World Cup Qualifier.

Cukaricki v Metalac GM, Serbia - Super Liga.


Partisan v Radnicki Nis, Serbia - Super Liga. 

The purpose of coming to Belgrade was to watch the rugby.  Knowing I had the presence of the huma
n handbrake Dai, I'd not planned any other games.  His absence meant I looked to see what else was on.  A combination of shared grounds, floodlights and various leagues, meant kick off times were staggered from 1000 to 1900, so I could get five full games and two part.

A luxurious and quiet hotel meant a decent nights sleep so I was up and ready by 0800.  First stop was the Serbian national railway museum.  Except I was told on arrival that it was only open to pre-booked school parties.  Frustratingly, there were no school parties to tag along with, and for some reason it is now frowned upon for middle aged men to ask to borrow complete strangers children for a couple of hours, so I admitted defeat.  Here is the palatial building the museum is housed in, note the patriotically liveried tram.


I have been to Belgrade many times in the past and I have to admit, I wasn't a big fan of it.  It always seemed a shithole, but not in a good way, with an air of hostility about it.  A bit like a Wetherspoons.  However, whilst there were still some signs of the Belgrade I remembered....


.....much of the rest of it seems to have been done up.


With the denial of a bit of culture from the railway museum, I decided to head for the city fortress instead.


Pleasingly, it was host to the Partizan basketball stadium, with the inner walls and the monument to Despot Stefan in the background.


Even better, it was host to the Serbian tank museum.


Heading out the far side of the fortress, with the Danube stretching out below, was one of the most spectacular first glimpses of a ground I have had.


Even better, the weekly train of oil tanks that passes the ground, then made an appearance.


With the ground’s floodlight pylons on the left, it was exiting the fortress through the gatehouse.


Then one of the most obscure entrance to a ground imaginable, a scramble up the city walls.


And so I was at what is now definitely one of my top five grounds.


FK Dorcol 3 v Zarkovo 3, Serbia Srpska Liga - Belgrade section.

FK Dorcól were founded in the 1950s as part of a larger sports club, which also includes a rugby league section.  They have always played in the Belgrade regional leagues, except for five years ago when they won the league, and played in the Serbian second division for one season before being relegated.

Zarkovo were founded earlier, in 1927, and are from the south west suburbs of Belgrade.

Watching From crumbling city walls is a new one for me.  These were tight against the touchline.


Part of them had been rebuilt, but the bricks were exceedingly slippy, with a not very inviting 25 foot drop to the pitch.


To get to the main stand, involved a walk along the walls, around the second pitch.


The actual main entrance was in complete difference to the splendour of the one I had chosen.


The second pitch is the one used for rugby league, and is also tight against the wall, with a few steps of terracing down the opposite touchline.


After parting with 100 dinar, about 70p, I was in amongst some classic cars.


The focus of the ground was this main stand.


Although quite basic, the simple addition of these trellises transformed the stand.


However, the real gem from this side was the view of the walls and the fortress, looking down on the ground.


The ground was hemmed in by the railway, passing within a few feet of the corner flag, and completely unfenced.


This did make gathering stray balls easy, as the line passed right behind the stand.


A parent turned up with a child, and a proper 1970s infant football kit; an upturned beer crate and a small drum.  I thought about enquiring if they fancied a trip to the national railway museum.


Despite the crowd numbering about 30, there was still a gang of ultras, going under the name of the Gaućosi, who but on a pyrotechnic display at the start of the second half.


As ever, you build a nice stand with comfy seats, but still people will choose to sit on hard wooden benches, with the pitch half obscured by a fence.


There seemed to be a colony of feral cats somewhere near, as they were all over the place, and a couple of times play had to be stopped as they were chased off the pitch.


Apparently the game finished three all, which was a surprise to me as I only missed the first ten minutes, but only remember one goal.  Still, there was a @keepers_towel


My next move was on one of the old-skool trams....


....across the Danube....


...to Novi Beograd.  Or New Belgrade to the uninitiated, past the Palace of Serbia, which were the parliament buildings of the former Yugoslavia.


Also the home of FK IMT, who also play in the Srpska Liga


My destination was the slightly less picturesque Radnički Beograd sports club.


Radnicki Novi Beograd 0 v Sopot 1, Serbia Srpska Liga - Belgrade section.

Radnički were formed in the 1920s by workers from the Belgrade construction college.  They played in the city itself, and had there heyday in the 1950s when they rose to the Yugoslav top division and reached the cup final.  However, by the 1960s they were in decline, dropping down to the regional league.  Surprisingly, they rose again in the 1990s, reaching the top division, based mostly on a strong youth set up.  By the mid 2000s, financial problems meant they dropped back down to the regional leagues.  Radnički means 'workers' and a lot of sports teams in the countries have it in their club name.  It translates as red neck which derives from the sun burn the agricultural workers got.  It is unknown if they drive pick ups, drink moonshine and undertake hideous racist acts in the name of the confederate flag.

Sopot is a town 40km south of Belgrade. The team were also formed in the 1920s.  They have always played regional football.


The team play on the main pitch of the Radnički Beograd sports ground.  This is a large complex with five other pitches.


The main facility is a steep concrete terrace set into the hillside.


At the centre of this is a covered area that was devoid of any seats and had been fenced off.  

For something to be cordoned off at an Eastern Europe non league ground, it must be planet-threateningly dangerous.


The stand was horrifically steep, with many people choosing to watch amongst the trees behind it.


On the opposite touch line was another concrete terrace, though was out of bounds to the public. 


There was a female linesman on the near side.  I can't speak a word of Serbian, but I can tell an underlying sense of misogyny.


The sports club also has a rugby league team.  On entering the ground, I'd paid my 200 dinar (£1.80) to two blokes on the gate (ok, a trestle table in the car park).  On finding I was English, they asked if I liked rugby league, as they were going to a game afterwards.   I confirmed, yes I did, and that if it was Serbia v Italy, then I was going too. 


They offered me a lift, which did mean I would miss a detour to half of one of my intended games.  The game ended 0 - 1 to the visitors, and we headed off to the rugby.


As we were heading to the game, the driver took a call from the football club, saying could they possibly have their gate money back.  I've never experienced a 70mph u-turn on a Serbian motorway in a knackered Fiat estate conveying five large rugby players, but somehow we managed it, bouncing across an un-barriered central reservation  with the driver choosing to use the horn vice any troubling of the indicator stalks.


After our enforced return, we arrived at the Makis Stadium.  This was actually a railed off part of a public park, and there didn't seem to be any admission charge.


Serbia 16 v Italy 64, Rugby League World Cup Qualifier.

Serbian rugby league was first played in the 1950s.  However, Croatia was playing rugby union, and as ever, the union officials cosies up to the authorities, and got league banned.  As soon as Yugoslavia broke up, Serbia went back to rugby league, and has a national competition, based mainly in Belgrade and Novi Sad.  The national side are quite strong in the European competition, but have yet to qualify for a World Cup.  This year they have brought in a few lower grade Australians with Serbian qualification.

Italian rugby league took off in the 1950s.  It had no domestic league so the teams took part in the French competition.  However, the sheer unpleasantness of the rugby union authorities is the same the world over, and the Italian RU went about banning any players who had competed in league.  However, in the 1990s, a group of Australians of Italian descent, set about reviving league in Italy, and it does now have a national competition.  It's national side is relatively strong, as it can draw on a number of ex pat Aussies and also some from the UK.


The teams took the field for the National anthems.  I can't say listening to a load of Australians embarrassingly trying to hum to the tune of their adopted nation, really added to the occasion.


The main feature was a pitch length concrete terrace, with plastic seats in the central section. 


Above this rose a number of narrow seated tiers, like a game of Jenga was being played with grandstands.


At the very top, and what appeared to be the press area, were ornate, free standing chairs.


Around the other side of the large running track was a knackered scoreboard and a scaffold pole and wooden planking stand, which was miles from the pitch.  It was as though a delegation had gone to England to look at stadium design, and had decided that the Withdean was the way forward.


As to the game, unfortunately the Italian Aussies were better than the Serbian Aussies, scoring four first half tries with no reply.


The pitch had secondary school style cut off goalposts.


The crowd numbered a few hundred, but were incredibly noisy, giving the home team a lot of backing.  Despite it maybe being considered a poorer country, by far the scruffiest person there was speaking with a broad Yorkshire accent, drinking from a carrier bag, was wearing a donkey jacket and shell suit, with a Hull KR hat on.  East Hulls finest.


Come the second half, the Italians again scored four tries, but then the Serbians scored three themselves, including one with the last move of the game.  This made it 16-64 which was significant as it is less than the 50-0 that Wales beat Serbia by, so Wales go through if they tie with Italy.


Anyway, a last view of the rugby through the wishing well behind one goal.


I bid farewell to my friend and headed to my next game, the floodlights of which could be seen from the rugby ground.  After walking up most hills in Belgrade, I couldn't find my next ground.  This was Serbian top division action, yet despite my phone showing I was a few hundred yards from the ground, and it kicking off in ten minutes, there wasn't a single sign of any supporters.  There are normally three signs that you near a game.  1) a procession of unhappy looking people in leisure wear.  2) appalling parked cars.  3) the sound of a distorted baseline of songs that no longer have a PRS obligation.  Eventually I encountered 2 and 3, but still no sign of 1.


Eventually I arrived at the ground.


Peering through a hedge I could see why I hadn't encountered any matchgoers; there were almost none.


There was no obvious means of getting a ticket, the security on the gate just waved me in, but then started the faff with searches.  Eventually, I took my seat, just as the teams emerged.


Cukaricki 2 v Metalac GM 1, Serbia - Super Liga.

Fudbalski klub Čukarički were formed in 1926, playing in the Belgrade regional leagues until promotion to the second division in the 1970s, then the first division in the 1990s.  After a few relegations and promotions, by 2012 they were back in the second division and about to go bankrupt.  However, they were bought by some shadowy construction magnate, who has thrown a lot of money at them, so they are back in the first division and have qualified for the Europa cup in the last three seasons.

Fudbalski klub Metalac were formed in 1961 in Gornji Milanovac, in central Serbia.  Originally called FK Radnik, they changed their name soon after forming, to that of the local company that sponsored them.  They played in regional leagues before promotion up to the top division in 2000.  Since then, they have swapped regularly between the first and second divisions.


The Stadion na Banovom brdu was built in 1969 and has been heavily upgraded in the last few years.


On one side as the squat main stand, with a bank of seats and lounges above.


Opposite, is a large bank of seating.


Behind one goal is a training pitch.


Whilst behind the other, an unexplained large concrete wall.


The crowd was extremely sparse, the only noise being from this bloke who shouted throughout the game.


The away side took the lead.


Then the home side missed a number of good chances.  They had an Ivorian and a Ghanaian playing up front for them, who obviously haven't quite hit the big time, as they arrived in a Fiat Strada.


They did eventually score a couple.


With the sun setting behind the main stand, the game finished 2-1 to the home side.


Afterwards, it was down the San Francisco style city scape.


For a multi-leg tram move into the city and back out.


To the Partizan stadium.  It is right by the Red Star ground and the locals were taking it in turns to deface each other off the road signs.


A good attempt at graffiti, but it still doesn't beat "scooter tuning isn't a crime".


Rick Astley ear worm.


Although there were a few more people heading to the game, it still had a pre-season friendly vibe to it.  The most numerous were the touts with great wads of tickets.  I fought my way to the proper ticket office and secured the most expensive one for 400 dinar, about £3.


Partizan 1 v Radnicki Nis 1, Serbia - Super Liga.

Partizan Belgrade in one paragraph?  Well, set up in 1946 as the army team.  Named after the communist soldiers who fought against the Nazis.  Didn't do too much until the 1960s when the product of their youth academy started to come through.  They went on to win 26 league titles, including 10 this century, 13 national cups and the Mitropa cup.  In Yugoslav times, there was regular insinuation of match fixing.  Second biggest team in Serbia, after Red Star

Radnicki are from Nis, in east Serbia.  They were formed in the 1920s by a group of labourers, and were seen as a workers team.  This was hardened during WW2 when the city was occupied by the Nazis, who set up a major concentration camp there.  This interned a lot of the activists involved with the club, and also the fans, so the city has a large anti-fascist bias.  The club had reached the top division by the early 1960s.  It remained there for most of the century, including some UEFA cup forays in the early 1980s.  However, this century has not been so kind, with relegation to the third division, though they are currently in their third season back in the top division.


It is fair to say that this was another game that hadn't captured the attention of the locals.  The stadium was opened in 1951, and was the national stadium, shared with Red Star.  It was built mainly by the army.  Originally a huge terraced bowl, it is now all seater.


On the far side, a roof now covers the central section.


On the side I was on, the back of the stand had been taken over by a tier of hospitality.


Both ends are open seating.  Behind one goal the ultras put on a bit of a show.


Then halfway through the first half, some turned up at the opposite end with some banners and some clapping.  No idea what it says.


Nis took the lead after a free kick was only parried by the keeper right into the path of the Nis forward.
  


This sent the six away fans wild.


For some reason, there were five separate dug outs, and still the ambulance staff had to sit in the open.


The officials on the touchline looked like a particularly poor Village People act.


To greet the start of the second half, another pyrotechnic show.


This inspired Partizan to score a goal.


Sorry, a goool.


Which was how it ended. 


I walked the five or so miles back to the hotel, with an immensely enhanced opinion of Belgrade and its people.  Even more so, that the day, with trams, football and food, had cost about £15.



Upwardly Re-evaluated Opinion Times

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